Engine - reassembly
Note: Ensure that all necessary new oil seals and gaskets have been obtained before starting the reassembly procedure.
OHV engines
1 With everything clean, commence
reassembly by oiling the bores for the cam
followers and inserting them fully in their
original sequence.
2 Lubricate the camshaft bearings and insert the camshaft from the timing cover end of the engine.
3 Fit the thrust plate and tighten the fixing bolts to the specified torque. The endfloat will already have been checked as described in Section 13. Secure the bolts with the locktabs (see illustration).
15.3 Secure the camshaft thrust plate bolts with the locktabs
4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in the crankcase and fit the shells. Using a little grease, stick the semi-circular thrustwashers on either side of the centre bearing so that the oil grooves are visible when the washers are installed (see illustration).
15.4 Fit the upper main bearing shell and thrustwashers (arrowed) to the
centre bearing
5 Check that the Woodruff key is in position on the front end of the crankshaft and tap the crankshaft sprocket into place using a piece of tubing.
6 Oil the bearing shells and lower the crankshaft into the crankcase.
7 Wipe the seats in the main bearing caps and fit the bearing shells into them. Install the caps so that their markings are correctly positioned as explained at dismantling in Section 12.
8 Screw in the cap bolts and tighten evenly to the specified torque.
9 Now check the crankshaft endfloat. Ideally a dial gauge should be used, but feeler blades are an alternative if inserted between the face of the thrustwasher and the machined surface of the crankshaft balance weight after having prised the crankshaft first in one direction and then the other (see illustration). Provided the thrustwashers at the centre bearing have been renewed, the endfloat should be within the specified tolerance. If it is not, oversize thrustwashers are available (see Specifications).
15.9 Using feeler blades to check crankshaft endfloat
10 If the oil pick-up tube was previously removed on 1.3 litre engines a new tube should now be fitted. Apply a suitable adhesive (available from Ford dealers) to the area shown, and fit the tube with the flat edge of the mounting flange parallel with the longitudinal axis of the engine (see illustration).
15.10 Oil pick-up tube details - 1.3 litre engine
A Area for application of adhesive B Edge must be parallel with engine longitudinal axis
11 Rotate the crankshaft so that the timing mark on its sprocket is directly in line with the centre of the camshaft sprocket mounting flange.
12 Engage the camshaft sprocket within the timing chain and then engage the chain around the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket.
Push the camshaft sprocket onto its mounting flange. The camshaft sprocket bolt holes should now be in alignment with the tapped holes in the camshaft flange and both sprocket timing marks in alignment. Turn the camshaft as necessary to achieve this, also withdraw the camshaft sprocket and reposition it within the loop of the chain. This is a “trial and error” operation which must be continued until exact alignment of bolt holes and timing marks is achieved (see illustrations).
15.12a Crankshaft and camshaft sprocket timing mark locations
15.12b Fit the timing chain and camshaft sprocket . . .
15.12c . . . with the sprocket timing marks aligned with the shaft centres
13 Screw in the sprocket bolts to the specified torque and bend up the tabs of a new lockplate (see illustration).
15.13 Secure the camshaft sprocket bolts with the locktabs
14 Bolt the timing chain tensioner into position, retract the tensioner cam spring and then slide the tensioner arm onto its pivot pin.
Release the cam tensioner so that it bears upon the arm (see illustration).
15.14 Refit the timing chain tensioner and arm
15 Fit the oil slinger to the front of the crankshaft sprocket so that its convex side is against the sprocket (see illustration).
15.15 Fit the oil slinger with its convex side against the sprocket
16 Using a new gasket, fit the timing cover, which will already have been fitted with a new oil seal (see Section 13) (see illustration).
One fixing bolt should be left out at this stage as it also holds the water pump. Grease the oil seal lips and fit the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to the specified torque.
15.16 Fitting the timing cover
17 Using a new gasket, bolt the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer into position. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque (see illustration).
15.17 Fitting the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer
18 Locate the engine adapter (back) plate on its dowels and then fit the flywheel (see illustrations).
15.18a Locate the engine adapter plate over the dowels (arrowed) . . .
15.18b . . . then refit and secure the flywheel
19 Screw in and tighten the flywheel bolts to the specified torque. To prevent the flywheel turning, the starter ring gear can be jammed or a piece of wood placed between a crankshaft balance weight and the inside of the crankcase.
20 Install and centralise the clutch as described in Chapter 6.
21 The pistons/connecting rods should now be installed. Although new pistons may have been fitted to the rods by your dealer or supplier (see Section 13), it is worth checking to ensure that with the piston crown arrow pointing to the timing cover end of the engine, the oil hole in the connecting rod is on the left (see illustration 8.13a). Oil the cylinder bores.
22 Install the pistons/connecting rods as described in Section 8.
23 Fit the sump as described in Section 5.
24 Fit the oil pressure sender unit, if removed.
25 Turn the crankshaft until No 1 piston is at TDC (crankshaft pulley 3rd timing cover marks aligned) and fit the oil pump complete with a new gasket and a new oil filter as described in Section 10.
26 Using a new gasket, fit the fuel pump. If the insulating block became detached from the crankcase during removal, make sure that a new gasket is fitted to each side of the block.
27 Fit the water pump using a new gasket.
28 Fit the cylinder head as described in Section 4.
29 Refit the pushrods in their original sequence and the rocker shaft, also as described in Section 4.
30 Adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1) and refit the rocker cover using a new gasket.
31 Fit the inlet and exhaust manifolds using new gaskets and tightening the nuts and bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 4, Part E).
32 Refit the carburettor using a new flange gasket and connect the fuel pipe from the pump (Chapter 4, Part A).
33 Screw in the spark plugs and the coolant temperature switch (if removed).
34 Refit the thermostat and the thermostat housing cover.
35 Fit the pulley to the water pump pulley flange.
36 Fit the alternator and the drivebelt and tension the belt as described in Chapter 1.
37 Refit the distributor as described in Chapter 5, Part B.
38 Refit the distributor cap and reconnect the spark plug HT leads.
39 Bolt on and connect the coolant pipe to the side of the cylinder block.
40 Fit the breather pipe from the oil filler cap to the inlet manifold and fit the cap.
41 Check the sump drain plug for tightness.
A new seal should be fitted at regular intervals to prevent leakage. Refit the dipstick.
42 Refilling with oil should be left until the engine is installed in the vehicle.
HCS engines
43 The procedure is as described previously
in this Section for OHV engines, noting the
following points.
a) Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the specified torque before fitting the oil pickup tube.
b) When fitting the oil pick-up tube, use a spanner on the flats of the flange to line it up (see illustration).
15.43a Line up the flange using a spanner - HCS engine
c) The flywheel is dowelled to the crankshaft and cannot be fitted off-centre (see illustration).
15.43b Fitting the flywheel to the crankshaft (dowel arrowed) - HCS engine
d) The big-end bearing cap bolts are angletightened after an initial torque load (see Specifications). Use the correct tool if it is available or make up a card template with the specified angle marked on it (see illustrations).
15.43c Using the correct tool . . .
15.43d . . . and using a card template to angle-tighten the big-end cap bolts
- HCS engine
e) Apart from lining up the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks (for valve timing), there is no ignition timing mark to worry about.
f) Fit the rocker cover using a new gasket.
Do not exceed the specified torque for the securing screws; this may result in oil leaks at the rocker cover/cylinder head mating face.
See also:
Body exterior fittings - removal and refitting
Spoilers and wheel arch
deflectors
Removal
1 The spoilers and wheel arch deflectors
fitted to XR3, XR3i, Cabriolet and RS Turbo
models are secured by screws, rivets and
clips, or a combination o ...
Major operations possible with the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out
without having to remove the engine:
a) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
b) Valve clearances - adjustment (see
Chapter 1).
c) Sump - removal and refitt ...
Inlet manifold - removal and refitting
Caution: Refer to the
precautions in Section 1 before
proceeding.
Note: A tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser will be required to check the idle
mixture on completion. A new gasket must be
us ...